Belize: The Old Stomping Ground

May 1st, 2024 Jayne Destinations, Sailing

From the Bay Islands of Honduras we sailed north to Belize. We don’t go hungry on passage! Beef chili, avocado, sour cream and plantain chips at sunset.

Passage food at sunset.
Passage food at sunset.

This arrival was a special one for us. Firstly because we used to live in Belize, and it was great to be back. We were looking forward to exploring this unique little country again, this time from the sea.

Secondly because checking a boat in with all the relevant authorities here takes quite some effort. It was a welcome relief to finally be able to raise the flag!

Raising the Belize courtesy flag.
Raising the Belize courtesy flag.

Our first anchorage was next to Rendezvous Cay, where we woke up to another beautiful Scout sunrise. You better Belize it!

Sunrise at Rendezvous Cay.
Sunrise at Rendezvous Cay.

From there we headed out towards the reefs. After leaving Gladden Cut with one reef in the main and the staysail, we were beating into only 17-18 knots of wind. But the swell was 2-3 meters from a windy night before, with the full extent of the Caribbean to our east. Scout is so solid - she loved it!

Beating out of Gladden Cut.
Beating out of Gladden Cut.

We anchored inside Glover’s Reef. The first order of business was to take our dinghy Scoot out to explore the hundreds of coral heads, and the incredible snorkeling within.

Exploring Glover's Reef in Scoot.
Exploring Glover's Reef in Scoot.

We spent a gentle afternoon drifting through the reef.

A gentle afternoon drifting through Glover's Reef.
A gentle afternoon drifting through Glover's Reef.

We also had fun trying to identify some of the Belizean coral along the way.

Identifying Belizean coral.
Identifying Belizean coral.

It was a glimpse of paradise for a few days.

A glimpse of paradise.
A glimpse of paradise.
Piles of conch shells by the water.
Piles of conch shells by the water.
Kayaks lined up in the shade.
Kayaks lined up in the shade.
Palm trees and powder-soft sand.
Palm trees and powder-soft sand.

Cocktails were courtesy of Jorge, the resident bartender-come-magician.

Cocktails courtesy of Jorge.
Cocktails courtesy of Jorge.

Next we had some downwind sailing to enjoy. There’s a zen to it: light winds, flat seas, and Scout’s mighty green sail.

The zen of downwind sailing.
The zen of downwind sailing.

We stopped at Tobacco Caye for a beautiful evening, featuring spicy margaritas and the undefeated queen of Connect 4.

Spicy margaritas and Connect 4 on Tobacco Caye.
Spicy margaritas and Connect 4 on Tobacco Caye.
Plotting the next Connect 4 move.
Plotting the next Connect 4 move.
Cheers from the waterfront bar.
Cheers from the waterfront bar.
The bar all lit up after dark.
The bar all lit up after dark.

This was the closest Scout had been to land in quite a while. The lengths we go to pick up crew!

Coming in close to pick up crew.
Coming in close to pick up crew.

Crew member Jex was onboard, and enjoying the sailing around the beautiful northern cayes of Belize.

Crew member Jex sailing the northern cayes.
Crew member Jex sailing the northern cayes.
Up on the bow in turquoise water.
Up on the bow in turquoise water.
Dinghy rides at sunset.
Dinghy rides at sunset.
All smiles at dinner in the cockpit.
All smiles at dinner in the cockpit.

With an extra pair of eyes onboard, we went snorkeling to identify some of the Belizean reef fish too.

Identifying Belizean reef fish.
Identifying Belizean reef fish.

We had company on the sail to our old home of San Pedro, with dolphins escorting us in.

Dolphins guiding us in to San Pedro.
Dolphins guiding us in to San Pedro.

It was good to be back!

Back in San Pedro.
Back in San Pedro.

Out at Turneffe Atoll we met Eric, the singing moray eel. He’s living his best life under a rock.

Eric the singing moray eel, Turneffe Atoll.
Eric the singing moray eel, Turneffe Atoll.

San Pedro also put on some beautiful sunsets for us.

Sunset over San Pedro.
Sunset over San Pedro.

We also went off to play with the dolphins. We were some time!

Off to play with the dolphins.
Off to play with the dolphins.

One thing we do have lots of on Scout? Sunglasses. This is also useful when viewing (indirectly) a solar eclipse!

Sunglasses on Scout.
Sunglasses on Scout.

We also spent some time in cool, laid-back Caye Caulker. Scout and about!

Scout and about in Caye Caulker.
Scout and about in Caye Caulker.

After three weeks of hanging out in Belize, we needed to be on the move again, as hurricane season was not far off.

Being at the far end of the Caribbean (as far as the prevailing trade winds and currents are concerned!) it’s not the easiest place to escape. We watched the weather carefully for wind shifts that would make our next passages easier.

Watching the weather for a window out of Belize.
Watching the weather for a window out of Belize.
Currents swirling around the western Caribbean.
Currents swirling around the western Caribbean.

While we waited, the freezer was well stocked, thanks to some fishing in Belize that would feed us for a few nights.

Fishing in Belize.
Fishing in Belize.

Stay tuned as the adventure resumes!

Read the previous post: Honduras and the Bay Islands

Read the next post: Sailing East to Cartagena