The Marquesas: Hiva Oa, Tahuata and Fatu Hiva

Apr 13th, 2025 Jayne Destinations, Sailing

After 24 days at sea, we had made landfall on Hiva Oa in the Marquesas, and we were now in French Polynesia. Once we had cleared in and restocked the fridge, it was time to explore. It didn’t take us long to discover that the sunsets in French Polynesia are pretty great.

Surreal French Polynesian sunsets.
Surreal French Polynesian sunsets.

There was also time for a beach bonfire with friends.

A beach bonfire on Tahuata.
A beach bonfire on Tahuata.

And we got straight back in the water to explore the other world beneath us.

Snorkeling in The Marquesas.
Snorkeling in The Marquesas.

Some mornings started with an early swim to the beach.

Jayne swam from Scout to the beach.
Jayne swam from Scout to the beach.

We sailed around to the north coast of Hiva Oa, and woke up to a stunning morning in Hanamenu.

Good morning from Hanamenu.
Good morning from Hanamenu.

Of course, life on a boat still involves boat jobs, but at least they are in increasingly beautiful places. One day it was re-stitching the sail bag and de-scaling the hot water tank. But we were in the lush, verdant, and friendly valley of Hanaiapa, tucked away on the north coast of Hiva Oa - so it was all good!

Boat jobs in beautiful places.
Boat jobs in beautiful places.
Another Hiva Oa north coast anchorage.
Another Hiva Oa north coast anchorage.
Sunbeams over the anchorage.
Sunbeams over the anchorage.
A palm-lined road through the valley on Hiva Oa.
A palm-lined road through the valley on Hiva Oa.
A face carved in stone by the roadside on Hiva Oa.
A face carved in stone by the roadside on Hiva Oa.
Delicate white flowers everywhere.
Delicate white flowers everywhere.
A splash of red among the greenery.
A splash of red among the greenery.
Bright yellow blooms.
Bright yellow blooms.
An impressive carved wooden tiki.
An impressive carved wooden tiki.
A colourful local boat pulled up on the shore.
A colourful local boat pulled up on the shore.

One day we had this remote bay all to ourselves.

A remote bay all to ourselves on the north coast of Hiva Oa.
A remote bay all to ourselves on the north coast of Hiva Oa.

From Hiva Oa we headed south to Fatu Hiva. Our first swim from the boat there proved that it was as beautiful under the water as above!

Our first swim in Fatu Hiva.
Our first swim in Fatu Hiva.

We followed it up with a sunset snorkel in a special place.

A sunset snorkel in The Bay of Virgins on Fatu Hiva.
A sunset snorkel in The Bay of Virgins on Fatu Hiva.

Moving between anchorages, it was a beautiful day for the gennaker.

Never get tired of our big green flash of a gennaker.
Never get tired of our big green flash of a gennaker.

Our last anchorage in tropical Fatu Hiva included hikes to a waterfall for a refreshing freshwater swim, tiki sculptures, a 4WD trip to a bark bashing and art demonstration, tasty local food, as well as generally soaking up the beauty of this unique place.

Waterfalls, tikis, bark bashing and local food in Fatu Hiva.
Waterfalls, tikis, bark bashing and local food in Fatu Hiva.
Moody skies over Fatu Hiva.
Moody skies over Fatu Hiva.
The waterfall at the end of the hike.
The waterfall at the end of the hike.
An ancient stone tiki beneath the peaks.
An ancient stone tiki beneath the peaks.
Towering palms along the trail.
Towering palms along the trail.
Looking down on the village of Hanavave from high above.
Looking down on the village of Hanavave from high above.
Under the branches of a huge old tree.
Under the branches of a huge old tree.
Having a go at bark bashing.
Having a go at bark bashing.
Painting a design onto the bark cloth.
Painting a design onto the bark cloth.
A wet and windy 4WD trip along the coast.
A wet and windy 4WD trip along the coast.
Sharing a tasty local meal in Hanavave, Fatu Hiva
Sharing a tasty local meal in Hanavave, Fatu Hiva
Bananas drying in the sun.
Bananas drying in the sun.
Towering peaks above the bay.
Towering peaks above the bay.

From Fatu Hiva we sailed north again to the island of Tahuata, where we were reminded to never underestimate the Pacific.

We woke up one morning to blue skies, a calm sea, and gentle winds. But, being on the leeward side of this high mountainous island, we didn’t see a crazy (and mostly un-forecasted) front racing in from the east.

A day of violent squalls, 30-50 knot winds, and driving walls of rain later, we think most of the boats in the Marquesas found out whether their anchors were well set or not!

Fortunately ours was, and Scout’s anchorage by the cute town of Hapatoni had decent protection from a huge cliff above us - rather than the valleys in other anchorages that tend to funnel and accelerate wind from the east. The decks definitely got a good wash down, but by the evening the worst had passed, and we were all hoping for a gentle night’s sleep.

Never underestimate the Pacific.
Never underestimate the Pacific.

Once the weather had calmed down, Hapatoni was back to its tropical and scenic self - and thanks to SV Far Out for the awesome photo!

Tranquil Hapatoni, Tahuata, after the storm.
Tranquil Hapatoni, Tahuata, after the storm.
A grand old tree by the shore.
A grand old tree by the shore.
The village church, with its little bell tower.
The village church, with its little bell tower.
Looking down on the anchorage.
Looking down on the anchorage.

Next, we would be heading north to Ua Pou and Nuku Hiva, but that’s for James’s next blog post!

Read the previous post: 24 Days Across the Pacific

Read the next post: The Marquesas: Ua Pou and Nuku Hiva