The Marquesas: Ua Pou and Nuku Hiva
After three weeks exploring the southern Marquesas, we pointed Scout north to Ua Pou and Nuku Hiva.
We arrived at Ua Pou on a calm evening. Its name means “two pillars” in Marquesan, which is appropriate, given the great basalt spires rising nearly 4,000 feet out of the ocean. Our friends on Far Out were there too, and sent over a drone shot of our arrival.
The water up here was an aquatic dream: crystal clear and full of fish. We spent days in it.
And then there were the mantas. A family of giant manta rays (and I mean giant) were cruising the bay at Ua Pou, and we got in the water with them. It was incredible to freedive alongside such huge, gentle creatures, and we came back to the boat with Far Out in a state of euphoria.
And here’s a shout out to the most important half of the Scout team, for no special occasion whatsoever, except to remind everyone (and her) that we couldn’t do any of this otherwise!
On to the north side of the island, and an anchorage we voted “the one with the most dramatic skyline”.
Then north to Nuku Hiva. After a good night’s sleep in Hakatea Bay, we were treated to a great sunrise, with the light coming up over still water.
But the Marquesas aren’t just about the water. We hiked to the Vaipō waterfall along an ancient Polynesian road, and then up a very waterlogged canyon. The scenery was amazing.
Back on board, an early birthday present arrived: new freediving gear, ready for the Tuamotus next month. Jayne knows me too well.
We finished off our time in the Marquesas with a road trip to the dramatic, unpopulated north coast of Nuku Hiva, and “Godzilla Ridge”.
After well over a month in these islands, the Marquesas had given us mantas and waterfalls, spires and solitude. Next up: the Tuamotus!
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