Into the Pacific: Panama to the Galápagos
It’s 850 miles from Panama to the Galápagos, straight through the doldrums. In February, this was always going to be a light wind affair.
Day 1. We slipped away from the bustle of Panama City with a helpful current and 8-12 knots of downwind breeze - perfect conditions for the asymmetric spinnaker on its own, with barely a cloud in the sky. Slow, steady, and oh so comfortable. As night fell and we approached Punta Mala, we switched to just the solent: without the mainsail we can sail deeper downwind without it collapsing, and at night, conservative is good.
Day 2. The northerly wind off the Panamanian coast died. We still had two knots of current in our favour, but even the spinnaker can’t cope with four knots of wind. So on went the faithful Volvo to keep us moving. Motoring and fishing.
Day 3. “Come to the Pacific, they said. It’ll be sunny, they said.” We spent the morning motoring through the ITCZ and a band of squalls. It was just rain, thankfully, since lightning is a boat’s worst enemy. Out here it was just us and the large offshore seabirds, who seemed to see Scout as a target for their enthusiastic deposits. At least the rain was washing the decks! Oh, and at 4°30’ north, this was the furthest south Scout had ever been. We should reach the equator in a few days.
Day 4. And then the wind came back, which is always the most magical moment on a sailboat. The engine went off, the sails filled, and we headed west to make the most of it.
Days 5-6. Say what you like about the doldrums, but they have spectacular sunsets. Light winds, a big ocean, and a booby for company. Jayne also caught the drone mid-air on its return.
Day 7. Dead calm. When there’s truly no wind, there’s little to do but some small maintenance: a slow walk around the estate, checking for chafe, and making sure everything is as it should be. Scout was looking good.
Day 8. The equator! We held the traditional ceremony for Scout’s first crossing. Neptune was invoked, a cheeky bottle of wine was opened, and there were arts and crafts. Welcome to the southern hemisphere, Scout!
Day 9. Landfall! Time for another flag photo (or two), because the Galápagos is awesome. Nine days, 850 miles, and a whole new hemisphere to explore.
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