The Cayman Islands

Mar 7th, 2024 James Destinations, Sailing

In 1503, on his fourth voyage, Christopher Columbus came across a pair of low islands swarming with turtles, and named them Las Tortugas. We arrived in Grand Cayman some 521 years later - though with GPS, PredictWind, and a father in Devon watching our every move, we had rather less excuse for getting lost than he did.

Raising the Cayman Islands courtesy flag.
Raising the Cayman Islands courtesy flag.

The passage from Jamaica was a beauty: a proper downwind sail across open Caribbean water.

Downwind sailing from Jamaica to Grand Cayman.
Downwind sailing from Jamaica to Grand Cayman.

Speaking of Devon, a quick shout out to John Pearce: father, father-in-law, and Scout’s entire onshore control centre. Meteorologist extraordinaire, coastguard liaison, and morale-booster (via Iridium) for our longer passages, all from sunny Devon, England. Every boat should have one!

John Pearce, Scout's onshore control centre.
John Pearce, Scout's onshore control centre.

We settled into the Cayman rhythm quickly: swimming, sunsets, and beach runs.

Living the life in the Cayman Islands.
Living the life in the Cayman Islands.

There was some boat work too, but of the enjoyable kind. With more remote cruising ahead of us, I spent a happy day hacking satellite imagery so that it would display offline on our chartplotters. Can you guess where this is?

Hacking satellite imagery for our offline chartplotters.
Hacking satellite imagery for our offline chartplotters.
Coral heads in satellite view.
Coral heads in satellite view.

Most days a cruise ship would come in, drop several thousand people off in George Town, and leave again at sunset. So farewell to the visiting cruise ship, from those of us who prefer sails!

Farewell to the visiting cruise ship.
Farewell to the visiting cruise ship.

The Cayman colours at that time of day were spectacular.

Cayman colours.
Cayman colours.

Then a cold front came through, and over a few days the wind went almost all the way around the clock. By the end of it, a northerly was blowing that felt (locally, at least) cold. It’s all relative, of course.

The good news was that our Ultra anchor didn’t budge an inch through the whole rotation, and the Vesper Cortex stood anchor watch without complaint, in addition to its day job as our VHF and AIS.

A cold front swings the wind around the clock.
A cold front swings the wind around the clock.

Once it had passed, it was back to sunsets and beach runs.

Grand Cayman sunsets and beach runs.
Grand Cayman sunsets and beach runs.

The local cockerels were ready for the weekend too.

Cayman cockerels, ready for the weekend.
Cayman cockerels, ready for the weekend.

No visit to Grand Cayman is complete without Stingray City, and it deserves its reputation. We spent a day at anchor swimming with these gentle giants as they cruised the shallows. Scout’s lifting centreboard means she’s at home in that skinny turquoise water, and one particularly bold stingray photobombed the GoPro at close range.

Swimming with the gentle giants at Stingray City.
Swimming with the gentle giants at Stingray City.
Swimming under Scout in seven feet of water.
Swimming under Scout in seven feet of water.
Freediving in the Cayman shallows.
Freediving in the Cayman shallows.

As February came to an end, we swam in Grand Cayman’s Bioluminescent Bay.

A night swim in the Bioluminescent Bay.
A night swim in the Bioluminescent Bay.

Our last evening in the Caymans was spent at what felt like the end of the world. Scout was completely in her element in the aquamarine water.

Scout in her element.
Scout in her element.

Next stop: southwest, to Honduras!

Read the previous post: Jamaica: Port Antonio, Nanny Falls and Blue Mountain Coffee

Read the next post: Honduras and the Bay Islands