Season 2, Part 1 - Grenada to Jamaica

Oct 2nd, 2024 Jayne Destinations, Sailing

Since June, Scout had been sitting out the 2023 hurricane season in Grenada, but by the end of September (and once Jayne was back on board) it was time to set off on our sails again. Our plan was to sail further south, and to the north east coast of a new continent - South America, specifically Guyana. But first we wanted to stop off in Tobago and experience the sights and sounds of the annual carnival in Scarborough.

Our longer passage to Guyana required some weather window planning. With some assistance from Chris Parker, the weather forecasting genius, we got the meteorological go-ahead to take advantage of an upcoming east-north easterly. This would take us on a three-day (predominantly) close reach sail south east down to Guyana.

Pre-dawn departure form Charlotteville, Tobago.

Our journey from Tobago to (and within) Guyana can best be understood through an article we wrote for the April 2024 edition of Yachting World, which can be read online here!

Dodging squalls, Venezuelan fishing boats, and shallow sand banks on the passage from Tobago to Guyana.

After three nights at sea, our arrival into the Essequibo river—and Guyanese waters—prompted us to raise the Q customs flag as well as the Guyana courtesy flag, despite not seeing a soul around.

Raising the Guyanese courtesy flag at the mouth of the Essequibo river, Guyana.

Our plan was to clear in at the nearest town of Bartica, approximately 50 miles upstream. After coordinating our motor up the river with the incoming 3 knot max current, we anchored for the night in thick mud while Scout danced with the ebbing and flooding of the river.

Aerial view of Scout anchored in the Essequibo next to Lau Lau Island.

Since we could not effectively make water in the river, we opted to anchor next to the Hurakabra River Resort and utilize their anchor field, water, laundry and home cooked Guyanase food service for visiting boats.

Scout anchored next to the Hurakabra River Resort.

Life and transportation on the river is dominated by the ubiquitous and colourful, wooden, water taxis. For a small fee they shuttle you between the main towns of Bartica and Parika.

Colourful water taxis provide the main form of transportation on the Essequibo.

We took advantage of this fast service for a trip to the equally colourful capital of Georgetown. From here we were also able to include a flight out to the incredible Kaieteur Falls, deep in the Amazon rainforest. It was a truly spectacular experience not least because it felt very much off the beaten tourist trail.

An adventurous flight out to the Kaieteur Falls.

Sadly, it was soon time to leave the ochre waters of the Essequibo, and with the ebbing tide Scout headed back out to sea once again. Our next destination would be the Windward islands. As soon as we were clear of the river mouth we set sail back north-north west towards Union Island in The Grenadines.

With a comfy 12 knots of wind just aft of the beam this was a great opportunity to use our brand new asymmetric spinnaker. For about 10 minutes the sky turned a glorious shade of green, that is until the dyneema attached to the sail head failed dramatically and all of our greenery fell ungracefully into the ocean.

Testing out our new green goddess asymmetrical spinnaker just before it failed.

Once in the Clifton mooring field on Union Island we cleared in and James repaired the failed dyneema. This reminded us of the famous expression about how sailing around the world is just a lot of “boat repairs in exotic places”. So true.

James replaces the dyneema on the spinnaker head.

From Union Island we island hopped north to the peaceful island of Mayreau and to Bequia. There is so much to like about the island of Bequia with its calm anchorage, friendly people, and a good choice of restaurants.

James taking a dip in the Bequia waters just off Princess Margaret Beach.

From Bequia we did an overnight sail to Rodney Bay in St Lucia, with the majestic Pitons to starboard. It was time to welcome visiting family and new crew members to Scout with a pre-Christmas dinner out in Marigot Bay.

Christmas family reunion in Marigot Bay.

Grand Piton’s obvious protrusion reminded Jayne of her challenge to climb it. With the help of a mandatory guide and fellow family member, the challenge was deemed a success.

Jayne climbed the Grand Piton as a New Years Eve challenge.

The Friday Night Fish Fry at Gros Inlet is a weekly street party that attracts the tourists first and then the locals later in the evening. The rum is flowing and the music is LOUD!

Friday Fish Fry street party at Gros Inlet, St Lucia.

Once our family crew members had departed after New Year, it was time to weigh anchor and set sail on our next three day downwind passage to Bonaire.

Going with the wind and waves towards Bonaire.

There are no anchoring options in Bonaire, but there was a very reliable (if a little pricey) mooring ball to attach Scout to for what would end up being three weeks while we explored this small but fascinating island. Below Scout’s hull is an underwater world so rich in sea life and in such clear water we were able to get some excellent underwater footage.

View of Scout from below - the mooring ball floats over a coral garden.

Bonaire is a big shore diving destination, and so we took advantage of this convenient opportunity to explore some great diving sites.

A sporty weather system out in the Caribbean was coming to an end and we were keen to move onto our next destination - Jamaica. It would be a four to five day sail with moderate winds. The first couple of days were still showing the remnants of big seas, however. After a couple of breaking waves off of our starboard aft quarter, a furling line broke free of its coil and got caught in the starboard rudder. With the help of our submerged GoPro we were able to diagnose the problem.

At least the water visibility was good enough for diagnosis. Confirmed - one trapped line in the rudder.

With several thousand feet of water below him and the odd Man-O-War jellyfish for company, James bravely jumped in and managed to detach the line from the rudder. All was well again.

With the mountainous island of Jamaica ahead we raised the courtesy flag and made our preparations for arrival into Port Antonio on the north eastern side of the island.

Raising the Jamaica courtesy flag in anticipation of clearance.

Stay tuned for our next blog post about Jamaica and Scout’s other destinations during the remainder of Season Two, 2024!

Read the previous post: A Hurricane Season Hiatus for Scout