To Minerva Reef and Fiji

May 25th, 2026 James Destinations, Sailing

After six months in New Zealand, we said farewell to Opua and the Bay of Islands, and pointed Scout north into the autumn South Pacific. Ahead of us was an 833 mile passage to Minerva Reef, and then on to Fiji.

It started with a day or two of sunshine, and then deteriorated quickly into squally, upwind sailing in muddled, growing seas, for just over six days. There was one bright spot, though: somewhere in the middle of it all, I celebrated another trip around the sun. Birthdays at sea are fairly simple affairs.

And then, just as the sun was setting on the sixth day, the sea flattened, the sky cleared, and there was Minerva Reef: a ring of coral in the middle of nowhere, two-thirds of the way from New Zealand to Fiji. After six days of being beaten up, sailing into that calm was bliss.

Our new code zero sail on display as we leave the Bay of Islands.
Our new code zero sail on display as we leave the Bay of Islands.
Flying the spinnaker in those first sunny days.
Flying the spinnaker in those first sunny days.
Birthday cake, somewhere in the middle of the ocean.
Birthday cake, somewhere in the middle of the ocean.
A cuppa below, while the seas build outside.
A cuppa below, while the seas build outside.
Sun breaking through the clouds on passage.
Sun breaking through the clouds on passage.
Blue skies from the helm.
Blue skies from the helm.
Waves breaking over the foredeck.
Waves breaking over the foredeck.
Still smiling, despite the upwind slog.
Still smiling, despite the upwind slog.
Scout under a fiery evening sky.
Scout under a fiery evening sky.

We stayed for a week, with the lagoon a lot calmer than the outside, and protected from the swell we’d been sailing through. We relaxed, finished the birthday celebrations properly, and caught up with friends (thanks to the crew of Flora for the photos). We also went lobster hunting on the reef, and you can’t beat a fresh Minerva surf and turf!

A week relaxing in Minerva Reef.
A week relaxing in Minerva Reef.
Finishing the birthday celebrations properly, with bubbles.
Finishing the birthday celebrations properly, with bubbles.
Freediving down to the coral.
Freediving down to the coral.
Flora under stormy skies.
Flora under stormy skies.
A dinghy full of happy divers.
A dinghy full of happy divers.
Waves and waves.
Waves and waves.
A selfie beneath the navigation beacon.
A selfie beneath the navigation beacon.
Anchored in turquoise water inside the reef.
Anchored in turquoise water inside the reef.
Lobster hunting success!
Lobster hunting success!
Surf and turf, Minerva style.
Surf and turf, Minerva style.
A ring of coral in the middle of nowhere.
A ring of coral in the middle of nowhere.

Then it was north again, for an energetic sail from Minerva to Savusavu in Fiji. Bula! Another flag, another country. And I’m happy to report that we did a fine job of relaxing by the marina pool.

Bula! Arriving in Savusavu.
Bula! Arriving in Savusavu.

Off Savusavu we also spotted a very peculiar looking sea creature. Does anyone know what it is?

A mystery sea creature off Savusavu.
A mystery sea creature off Savusavu.

Our next stop was Rabi Island. The Banaban people here were relocated from Ocean Island, in what is now Kiribati, in the 1940s, after phosphate mining devastated their homeland. They’ve spent eighty years preserving their heritage in their new home, and when we went ashore, a community-wide coconut planting session was underway for future generations.

It reminded us of the old phosphate ruins we’d seen on Makatea, in the Tuamotus. But the coral at Rabi was very healthy, and the bay was picture-perfect. A very special place.

The Banaban people of Rabi Island.
The Banaban people of Rabi Island.
Palm trees leaning over a quiet beach.
Palm trees leaning over a quiet beach.
A thumbs up from the beach.
A thumbs up from the beach.
A paddleboard break, with a view across the bay.
A paddleboard break, with a view across the bay.
Anchored in a picture-perfect bay.
Anchored in a picture-perfect bay.
Heading out to see the coral.
Heading out to see the coral.
Swinging from a rope over the beach.
Swinging from a rope over the beach.

Next up: the remote Lau group, further east…

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