Samoa

Oct 1st, 2025 James Destinations, Sailing

After a seven-night sail from Penrhyn, and a feisty finish, we tucked into Apia, Samoa. A new country, a new flag, and at least a week to explore it!

Arriving in Apia, Samoa.
Arriving in Apia, Samoa.

But first, some numbers. Somewhere in the middle of that challenging sail, with 35 to 40 knots of wind and five-metre seas both exactly on the beam, Scout passed 20,000 nautical miles under our ownership. We missed the exact moment, but 20,000 miles in three years is a huge milestone, and she’s still battling through it all like a champ. Here’s to the next 20,000!

20,000 nautical miles on Scout.
20,000 nautical miles on Scout.

Our first outing ashore was to see some traditional Samoan dance, which was - to use the technical term - fire.

Traditional Samoan dance.
Traditional Samoan dance.

We also climbed Mt Vaea, which was an energetic ascent, to the grave of Robert Louis Stevenson. The author of Treasure Island and Jekyll and Hyde made Samoa his home in the late 19th century, and is buried at the summit. His epitaph is the “Requiem” he wrote for himself: “Home is the sailor, home from sea, and the hunter home from the hill.”

Climbing Mt Vaea to Robert Louis Stevenson's grave.
Climbing Mt Vaea to Robert Louis Stevenson's grave.

We loved Samoa: the people, their smiles, and their insatiable spirit, as well as the fish and vegetable markets of Apia, and the green, volcanic interior. After a week or so, we left reluctantly, heading south to Tonga.

Farewell Samoa.
Farewell Samoa.
Dancers in yellow lighting up the stage.
Dancers in yellow lighting up the stage.
Outrigger canoes paddling out at dusk.
Outrigger canoes paddling out at dusk.
Lobsters and fresh fish at the Apia market.
Lobsters and fresh fish at the Apia market.
Big smiles and a colourful catch.
Big smiles and a colourful catch.
Street food, with vaisalo on the menu.
Street food, with vaisalo on the menu.
A warm welcome at every stall.
A warm welcome at every stall.
Fresh greens, with a smile.
Fresh greens, with a smile.
Cheers, with a flower behind the ear.
Cheers, with a flower behind the ear.
Sunset drinks, island style.
Sunset drinks, island style.
A waterfall in the rainy green interior.
A waterfall in the rainy green interior.
A swim at the bottom of a giant sinkhole.
A swim at the bottom of a giant sinkhole.

Read the previous post: A Cook Islands Detour

Read the next post: Landfall in New Zealand