The Tuamotus Again, and Bora Bora

Aug 26th, 2025 James Destinations, Sailing

Back on board after three weeks away, and with Jex joining us as crew for this leg, we pointed Scout north from Tahiti. We were going back into the Tuamotus, but this time to some of the atolls we’d missed on the way through. First stop: Makatea.

Makatea isn’t like the other Tuamotus. It’s a raised coral atoll - an ancient reef lifted 80 metres into the air - so instead of the usual low ring of motus, there are cliffs. They’re white limestone, full of caves and sinkholes, with the rusted remains of an old phosphate industry scattered across the top. Our guide Tapu told us the whole story, and finished off our tour with a freshwater swim in the caves.

Makatea's raised coral cliffs and phosphate mining ruins.

Views from the top of the cliffs.

Rusting industrial relics in the shallows.

Limestone cliffs in silhouette at sunset.

Old railway wheels from the mining days.

All aboard the Makatea Discovery tour.

Diving down into the freshwater caves.

Sunlight streaming around the hull.

Torchlit fun in the cave pool.

Next was Toau, with all of the palm-fringed joy you could ask for, some paddleboarding, and a chicken curry eaten with the best backdrop in the world.

Paddleboarding heaven on Toau.

Palm-fringed Toau, and a chicken curry with a view.

Leaning palms and an empty beach.

Sunset dinner in the cockpit.

Then it was on to Apataki, and one of the great perks of this lifestyle: choosing where to live each day. One morning’s choice was an uninhabited motu on the eastern side of the atoll, with protection from the wind, a long empty beach, and good snorkeling. Happy times.

Choosing where to live: an uninhabited motu on Apataki.

The hop from Apataki to Rangiroa was an overnight sail, and when two boats are making the same night passage, it’s a race!

A night sail from Apataki to Rangiroa.

Rangiroa was beautifully calm in the pre-dawn light, with Scout showing two anchor lights, as captured by our lovely (and early rising) friends on SV Carosy. It was our best night’s sleep in weeks.

Pre-dawn calm in Rangiroa.

Rangiroa’s passes are famous for their dolphins, and they didn’t disappoint.

Dolphin delight in the Rangiroa pass.

We also had a Polynesian outrigger canoe catch a free ride on our wake.

An outrigger canoe catching a free ride on our wake.

Then it was time for a two-night passage from Rangiroa to Bora Bora. There were squalls, swell, sunrises, and a rainbow, and then, on the morning of the third day, that unmistakable silhouette on the horizon. Bora Bora is a magical place.

Arriving in magical Bora Bora.

And then it was time to say goodbye to Bora Bora, and soon to French Polynesia itself. We spent one last afternoon basking in all the blues, and pointed Scout’s bow west. Onwards and westwards!

Basking in the blues, before saying goodbye to Bora Bora.

Read the previous post: Three Weeks off Scout

Read the next post: A Cook Islands Detour